Maritime Music!

Locals tell me that the place to be for music in this neck of the woods is Cheticamp and the Doreyman Restaurant and Bar. So, I trek back 200 kilometers to take in an incredible afternoon of live music. My lobster fisherman and new friend Charles from Neil's Harbor joins me for the fun.

 A few videos of the music and dancers for you to enjoy!

Lobster Fishing

What an amazing day, heading out into the sunrise. I will let my photos tell the story...

As a vegetarian, I had many thoughts and feelings about going out on the boat and I ultimately chose to do so and to participate in the fishing because I wanted to experience something that is such a huge part of this area. I do not regret going on the boat and while I was incredibly saddened each time a lobster was taken, I was also extremely grateful for the kindness of strangers and that these individuals are able to sustain a living in an industry that is struggling to survive.

Neil's Harbor

While wandering about, I bump into a group of fisherman and spend hours talking with them. Charles invites me to join him on his boat in the morning, 4am to be exact, and I'm excited to experience something that is such a large part of this area. So, I spend the day exploring Neil's Harbor and the surrounding area. 

Charles tell me about a place called White Point and I make the journey out along a very bumpy road, park at his uncle's B&B and walk the half mile in. Cresting the hill, I have to blink and remember that I am in Nova Scotia, as I could swear I am in Ireland! This place quickly becomes a favorite for me.

At lunchtime, I head to the only restaurant in town and talk to Samantha, the cook/waitress/server - turns out she is the girlfriends of Charles' deckhand Norm. When she finds out I'm fishing with the boys tomorrow, she makes me a sandwich and lends me all manner of gear including a hat, gloves, jacket and boots for the trip ahead. With such kindness and proximity, I feel very much at home.

When I tell Charles that I have seen hundreds of signs saying to watch for moose but have yet to see a moose, he offers to take me out to look for one. Our roadtrip takes us back the road I came in to Neil's Harbor on and we have success, one moose is in the ditch drinking water! This will be the only moose I see on my entire journey of 2100 kilometers!

And off to bed for 4am fishing!

Laundry Day!

An unexpected surprise has been seeing laundry out to draw. A local tells me that it's because there's so much wind, that the clothing dries very quickly. I'm not the only one smitten by this, artists capture the scenes in paintings, etchings, drawing, photography and more!

North to Cape Breton Island

There is so much to see along the scenic Cabot Trail. I stop for hikes, scenic vistas and anything else that catches my eye. My first day in Nova Scotia, I only drive 8 kilometers!

I had planned to camp each night, but with heavy rains and high winds, I find myself retreating to an occasional B&B or hotel. This is a hit to my budget, but well worth it when I am nestled beneath a blanket of bubbles in a hot tub, with a cup of coffee in one hand and a book in the other.

I am constantly impressed with the incredible friendliness of locals who think nothing of chatting with me for hours. The beaches are fabulous, with deep brown sand and I even come upon a garnet beach, with its red sand mixing with lighter colors. Everywhere I look, I see lobster fishing boats at work or rest and lobster traps lined up against buildings, propped up against doors, on the side of roads with for sale signs for travelers like me who are eager to take a bit of Nova Scotia home (though I can't take a trap home because my suitcase is to small and already filled with rocks and sand).  I love being able to take my time and wander aimlessly off the beaten path and bump in to people and places; this way, I feel like I stumble into the heart of a community, rather than skimming the surface.